Another couture season has come and gone and oh what a magnificent season it was with the return of Versace to the couture runway, Maison Martin Margiela’s first couture outing and the premiere of Raf Simons’ first couture collection for Christian Dior. Here’s a look at my favorite presentations.
A parade of pale pastel hues accented by black berets, architectural hats made from bird feathers and beaded veils by the master milliner Philip Tracey helped make the statement this season at Armani. No stranger to couture Armani stayed close to home with a collection that was modern and sleek with a subtle elegance.
New Vintage not old was the feel at Chanel this season. Playing on a 40’s theme, the collection paired with silver iridescent hose had a strong film noir feel. Anchored by beautifully tailored suiting and swing coats, it was evident that Lagerfeld was speaking to the women of style.
At Dior it was a who’s who of fashion, that included Alaïa, Alber Elbaz, Richardo Tisci, Olivier Theyskens, Marc Jacobs, and CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, for the debut of Raf Simons first haute couture collection and Simons didn’t disappoint returning Dior to its gleaming days that the house was so brilliantly known for. Simons started with a parade of tailored black silhouettes then quickly moved into shapes that harkened back to the glory days of Dior while stating his interruption of the future of the house, with sleek tailored modern pieces destined to be the favorite this season on the red carpet.
At Giambattista Valli it was a floral corsage filled with rich hues of red and green floral prints, finished with beautiful ruffled and embroidered detail. Valli accessorized each look with veiled tonal netting some with fluttering butterflies capturing the true beauty of the collection.
Maison Martin Margiela
They were veiled and beaded in fencing caged headgear at Maison Martin Margiela’s first couture show as Dior’s man of the hour Raf Simons a friend of Margiela, who left the house under a cloud of mystery, sat front row. A homage, to the man himself the collection aptly titled “Artisanal” drew on Margiela’s love for vintage and all things new. Constructed and reworked from vintage pieces the collection’s focus was on the top half of the body paired with straight leg trousers made from French lace. A favorite from the collection were the halter dresses tightly gathered around the neck like nooses with doorknob closures.
Navy, floral and brocade were in place this season as Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia presented their Valentino couture collection. Continuing what they do best the collection with its queen and her court feel was romantic with a strong feminine elegance, infused with crepes, chiffons and the use of encrusted cashmere appliqué. Piccioli and Grazia also made an impressive statement with the return to red, Valentino’s signature color.
Donatella didn’t disappoint with the return of Versace to the couture runway after an eight-year absence with a collection that Gianni would have been proud of filled with beautiful sensual silhouettes in chain mail, woven leather bodices, scarf prints, with high slits and the brands Medusa logo. Without doubt Hollywood will be calling.