Birds of Paradise PLUMES & FEATHERS IN FASHION

Alexander McQueen, Fall 2009, Photo: François Nars, Graphic Design: Paul Boudens

Momu Fashion Museum in Antwerp, presents Birds of Paradise PLUMES & FEATHERS IN FASHION. The exhibition is an ode to the elegance and refinement of the application of plumes and feathers in fashion and haute couture. Through a mixture of 19th-, 20th- and 21st-century accessories, garments and couture dresses, the different characteristics of the various plumes and feathers are highlighted: sophistication, femininity, lightness, wealth, luxury, but also lost innocence and dark romance. Plume embroidery is typically used in haute couture and evening wear owing to the costliness of the feathers, their strikingly elegant form and the technical refinement of feather embroidery. In collaboration with Maison Lemarié of Paris, the exhibition sheds light on the craft of the plumassier and the diverse techniques of feather embroidery. In addition, the immense variety of feather motifs will be covered.

Folding fan, mount in ostrich feathers dyed in degrade, tortoiseshell sticks decorated with a crown and arms in platinum, diamonds, rubies and enamel, 1928, Altenloh E&R jewelers, Brussels, Former collection Queen Astrid of Belgium, Royal Collections Palace of Brussels SA.1935.0088, Photo: Stephen Mattues.

19th-century accessories and belle époque garments showcase the refined elegance of the changing fashions at the end of the 19th century, emphasizing ostrich, pheasant and marabou feathers. The roaring twenties were the true heydays of garment feathers, as they were used in accessories such as boas and hats for flappers. Gabrielle Chanel also used feathers for her motifs and in the embroidery for her creations and film costumes. Marlène Dietrich’s iconic swan’s down coat is a masterpiece: it is the crowning jewel of the theme of black and white swan in evening dress.

Ann Demeulemeester, A/W 2010-2011, Photo: Dan Lecca

In contemporary fashion, the work of Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester counts as one of the most poetic examples of the use of feathers. The dramatic quality of the work of British designer Alexander McQueen is often expressed through the use of highly graphic feathers. Cristóbal Balenciaga, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Coco Chanel all have their own specific relationship with feathers and plumes. These days, feathers are again all the rage on the runway.

Quell, detail, mixed media with dove and pigeon feathers, Kate McGwire, 2011, Photo: Tessa Angus.

The exhibition also includes works by renowned British artist Kate MccGwire. MccGwire primarily works with feathers from pigeons, a type of bird that, today, generally conjures up negative and dull connotations. Yet the labour-intensive nature of her work, which is characterised by organic forms, variations in scale and a high degree of tenderness and precision, succeeds in transcending the ordinary qualities of this bird. She describes her practice as the discovery and reinforcement of beauty in the unconventional.

BIRDS OF PARADISE – Plumes & Feathers in Fashion  is currently on view now thru August 24, 2014 at  MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp | Nationalestraat 28 | BE-2000 Antwerp  +32 3 470 27 70 | www.momu.be | blog.momu.be | #momuantwerp  Tues-Sun, 10AM until 6PM, closed on Mon  Tickets: €8,00 / €6,00 / €3,00 (18>26) / free (-18)