The men’s show may have come and gone as we turn our attention to couture, but what an impression they made. There was everything from Dsquared2 “Brokeback Mormon” to Bond…James Bond at Gaultier. Here’s a look at a few of my fav’s from the Fall/Winter 2011 collections.
The Master, John Galliano was in true form as he paid homage to premier danseur Rudolf Nureyev, with a collection that hearkened back to my dance days. Galliano’s portrayal of the nomadic Russian born Nureyev was brilliantly crafted through strong military watchcoats, bum freezer jackets and my favorite chunky cardigans strapped over dance attire, complete with leg warmers and balletesque flats. http://www.johngalliano.com
Walter Van Beirendonck presented his collection using all African models found via a street casting. The beautifully rich toned skin of the models was the perfect canvas for Beirendonck as his palette of natural tones was richly accentuated using bold color statements. The collection started slim but grew into a”Something Big is Coming” moment as Beirendonck’s exaggerated use of silhouettes shifted the collection forward through oversized knitted ponchos and coats. http://www.waltervanbeirendonck.com
Jean Paul Gaultier opened his Bond themed show with his male Bond alter ego, quickly followed by (male/female) model of the moment Andrej Pejic whom easily doubled as a Bond girl, and was recently featured in Gaultier’s S/S 2011 couture show as the bride. The collection which featured the many faces of the tuxedo had elements of something old west and something neoprene as the designer played with shapes and fabrics moving his silhouette towards a more futuristic Bond. http://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com
The Dsquared2 show coined “Brokeback Mormon” as a title which made me chuckled was sadly very one note. The collection complete with horned rimmed glasses and big brimmed hats was more or less a mix of skinny low-slung jeans and cropped jackets. I found myself envisioning an abstract version of the preacher from Martha Graham’s ballet “Appalachian Springs”, another dance reference. A few great pieces: a chunky grey cable knit sweater, and a great wool top coat complete with fleece lining and buckle closures. http://www.dsquared.com
Thom Browne the master of the cropped trouser took his Thom Browne man back to the eighteenth century, treating him to an opulent dinner of fashion and style. The show which played more like a men’s couture show was theatrically tailored using an abundance of plaids, by way of long top coats, ponchos, sleeveless vests and trousers. Browne’s use of oversized puffed sleeves was the perfect finish to a collection well dressed. http://www.thombrowne.com
At Mugler, the world was treated to the premiere collection from Lady Gaga’s stylist and Mugler’s new creative director Nicola Formichetti and his right hand Romain Kremer along with a full cast of characters in toe. The show accompanied by a new Gaga track opened with photographer-filmmker Mariano Vivanco’s short film featuring the heavily tattooed model Rico pulling at his latex covered face and body. The collection, part Thierry Mugler (the man) part neo-modern, mixed Mugler’s signature oversized jackets with a new leaner silhouette constructed from neoprene, plastic, nylon and latex. All in all not a bad first showing for the stylist turned designer. http://www.us.boutique.thierrymugler.com